
Beautiful guest makeup artist and blogger, Mollie Parks, chats with us today about how to navigate the tan (or soon upon us, not-so-tan) waters of finding the right foundation!
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Finding the right foundation has been a foreboding thought for many women for years. And rightly so, it’s intimidating with thousands of product choices on the market.
So today I wanted to break it down into a simple, comprehensive way to find YOUR perfect shade. Now this will take some research and experimenting with products (notice I said simple, not easy!). But don’t give up! The payoff is worth it. Because our face is our face, it is not going anywhere and it’s important to make your skin look good. The wrong color or formula can throw you off your game since it won’t be YOU you see in the mirror. And that’s not how you want to go about each day, is it?
Great day makeup is meant to not be noticed. Your skin should be noticed. So you want a great fountain that blends seamlessly and looks like, hey, you’re not wearing a thing! That’s when you’ll find yourself rocking more at life. Feeling good about ourselves is important! It’s not a frivolous pursuit.
So, read on to get my tips for finding your best foundation and being the best YOU.
Before you go to the store, here are four things to know about foundations:
1. Ingredients: Is it silicone, water, oil or wax-based? How do you figure out which it is? Look at the ingredients list and within the first few listed you’ll find the answer. Ingredients are listed in order by the highest amount used to the smallest.
Knowing this will help you determine how it will work for you skin. If you’re not sure what you like, try all four to decide!
Note, many foundation’s first ingredient is aqua (water) however that doesn’t automatically make it water-based. Water helps with viscosity and the slip of a foundation so it’s in most of them. I have listed below a few key ingredients to look out for in order to determine the base.
Silicone-this is my personal favorite because of the finish and its longevity. The silicone molecule is too large to fit into a pore, so it sits on top of the skin. Because of that, it’s great for giving skin a smoother finish and it allows the skin to breathe. Silicone is also occlusive which means it forms a protective film on skin and locks in moisture. Some silicone ingredients are dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, phenyl trimethicone, and dimethicone copolyol.
Water-if you like for foundation to feel, well, not there, you will probably really like this one. Because it’s water-based, it is very light and does not give a lot of coverage. One thing to keep in mind, however, is that it is not especially water resistant.
Oil- first please note that oil-based does not automatically mean it will clog your pores or be bad for your skin. The oils used in cosmetics are highly refined, and made specifically for use on skin. Oil is not a dirty makeup word. The benefit of oil based is that it has emollient (a type of hydration that softens the skin) ingredients that are very good for dry skin. It gives the skin a dewy finish which is great since dry skin often looks dull. And we don’t want that! Look for ingredients such as decyl oleate, or lanolin oil. There are many oil derivatives so it takes a little researching for some of those ingredients.
Wax- Many pro foundations (meaning professional grade, and what makeup artists use in their kit) are wax based because of their staying power and ability to be sheered down. But that doesn’t mean consumers can’t use them! They can withstand heat and sweating very well (it’s used in theater makeup to hold up under hot lights). Because they come in heavier form, you get a versatile product. It can work as a concealer or heavy coverage foundation one day, and on another day you sheer it down with moisturizer for lighter coverage. Ingredients like carnauba wax, beeswax, lanolin, ozokerite, and candellila wax are just a few to look out for with this type of foundation.
2. Texture: Foundations come in liquid, powder, or cream form. Each one has a very different feel and only you can know what you like. Also, knowing your skin type goes a long way to deciding what will work well. For example, if you have very dry skin then powder is not for you. It will grab at your dry skin and only enhance the dryness. Also, oily skin can benefit from powder foundations (though that doesn’t mean liquids are out of the question). If you don’t know how you feel about one versus the other, try them out at the store. You won’t know until you experiment!
3. Finish: Foundations have either a matte, semi matte, or dewy/satin finish. Matte means no glow, and is really great for oily skin as you need something to help tone down shine. Dewy means there will be little glow or sheen, which is meant to mimic healthy, youthful skin. Mature or dry skin can really benefit from a dewy finish because that will give it a nice glow to the skin. And semi matte is the in between that has a little glow but less than a satin finish foundation.
4. Coverage: Decide what kind of coverage you want from your foundation. Do you want full coverage because you have a lot of acne, scars, or pigmentation to cover? Full coverage doesn’t mean it will look heavy. That really depends on the way you apply and blend it (so long as it is a good product). Blending is the key to making foundation looks seamless. If you don’t like the feeling of makeup on your skin, have very little to cover up, or just don’t want to wear much, a light or sheer coverage foundation is right for you. (This is where water or silicone based can be really great).
Or if you need just an oomph more than light, medium coverage is the way to go. There are a lot of foundations that are “light to medium coverage” because they are buildable. Which means for light, you apply one coat, and for medium coverage you apply another layer.
5. I said four but here’s an extra tip. Knowing a little about the color range of a product line will help you tremendously when going to a store. Especially if you fall on the “extremes” of the color range- very fair or very dark. Some brands sadly don’t have great global skin range. You can either do this just by trying in the store, or if you’re like me, you can do some research first. One way to get ideas is to find a beauty blogger with skin similar to yours and see what they wear.
A few great lines for dark/deep skin: No7, Face Atelier, Fashion Fair, Becca, Cover FX, Iman, Black Opal, and Make Up For Ever have an excellent range.
For fair/light: Make Up For Ever (especially the Face and Body), No7, Revlon, Smashbox, Lancome, Cover FX, and Face Atelier.
These are not the only brands with global skin tones, but just a few to help you out.

When Going to a Store:
1. First decide the price range you want to stick with. In my opinion it is better to splurge on complexion products (foundation, concealer, and powder) because that is what you want looking its best. Your skin should look healthy and like skin. Sometimes cheaper foundations just don’t do the trick.
However if that’s not important to you or just not in your budget, I understand. Drug store brands have really stepped up their game with products and you can find great items. NYX, Revlon, Iman, Boots, and Loreal are among some of my favorites.
2. Next, make sure the store has great natural lighting. There are a few Sephora stores that I refuse to go into because the lighting is incredibly dark. It’s pointless trying to decide if a color works when the store doesn’t have great lighting. You won’t actually know how it looks until you go outside!
3. Don’t test foundation on your hand. It’s a completely different color (and the skin is different) than your face and won’t give you the correct idea. The best place to find out if the foundation is your color is along your jawline. That way you can see it it matches your neck and face. This step takes a lot of trial and error and is where women get the most frustrated. Like I said, don’t give up! It might take time but it IS worth it.
4. Not 100% sold on the color? Ask for a sample! That way you can try it out for a few days and see how it reacts on your skin. I have had many friends who are afraid to ask for a sample because they don’t want to bother a sales associate. That’s what they’re there for! Be polite and just ask. You are doing both yourself and the company a favor by trying it out first. If you have to buy and return it, that’s two trips and a loss for the company. So just ask for a sample!
And the last thing to remember, it might take some trial and error and even a few exasperated sighs before you find what fits. It’s kind of like dating! You just keep going.
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A comprehensive list of great makeup brands in each “Base” category:
Silicone-based foundation: Urban Decay’s Naked Skin Weightless Ultra Definition Liquid Makeup, Face Atelier Ultra Foundation, Make Up For Ever HD Invisible Cover Foundation, Becca Matte Skin Shine Proof Foundation, Revlon Colorstay Whipped Creme Foundation, Revlon Nearly Naked Broad Spectrum SPF 20, and Iman Second to None Stick Foundation.
Oil-based foundation: Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer, MAC Mineralize Foundation
Water-based foundation: Make Up For Ever’s Face & Body, MAC’s Face and Body, Laura Mercier Moisture Supreme Foundation, CoverGirl Clean Liquid Makeup, Cover FX Natural Finish Oil Free Foundation, and Kett Hydro Foundation
Wax-based foundation: MAC Full Coverage Foundation, Kett Fixx Cream Foundation, MAQPRO foundation, and RCMA foundation
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Mollie is an NYC makeup artist who believes in affirming other people’s dreams while working to achieve her own. She writes about creating beauty through vulnerability at Style of Your Own. And she loves to make loud noises in the morning.
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